Friday, May 22, 2009

Malay Culture - Etiquette and customs

People

Having had an interesting past and being a part of the international spice route many hundreds of years ago, Malaysia has turned into a mosaic of cultures. Everything from its people to its architecture reflect a colourful heritage and an amalgamated culture. To understand Malaysian culture, you must first get to know its people.

Today, the Malays, Malaysia's largest ethnic group, make up more than 50% of the population. In Malaysia, the term Malay refers to a person who practices Islam and Malay traditions, speaks the Malay language and whose ancestors are Malays. Their conversion to Islam from Hinduism and Theravada Buddhism began in the 1400s, largely influenced by the decision of the royal court of Melaka. The Malays are known for their gentle mannerisms and rich arts heritage.

Meeting and Greeting

Greetings in a social context will depend upon the ethnicity of the person you are meeting. In general, most Malays are aware of Western ways so the handshake is normal. There may be slight differences though and a few things to bear in mind include:

• Malay women may not shake hands with men. Women can of course shake hands with women. Men may also not shake hands with women and may bow instead while placing their hand on their heart.

Names

• Many Malays do not have surnames. Instead, men add their father's name to their own name with the term "bin" (meaning ‘son of’). So Rosli bin Suleiman, would be Rosli the son of Suleiman.
• Women use the term "binti", so Aysha bint Suleiman is Aysha the daughter of Suleiman.

Gift Giving Etiquette

• If invited to someone's home for dinner, bring the hostess pastries or good quality chocolates.
• Never give alcohol.
• Do not give toy dogs or pigs to children.
• Do not give anything made of pigskin.
• Avoid white wrapping paper as it symbolizes death and mourning.
• Avoid yellow wrapping paper, as it is the color of royalty.
• If you give food, it must be “halal” (meaning permissible for Muslims).
• Offer gifts with the right hand only or both hands if the item is large.
• Gifts are generally not opened when received.

Customs (Adat Melayu)

How often have you wished that you understood something about the lives and habits of people who are of a different race and religion from yourself? This is a simple account of a few of the more important events celebrated by Malays at special times in their lives. Some of them you will have seen, maybe many times. Some of them may have puzzled you. This short description tells you a little about them.

Birth of Child

The first thing happens to all of us is that we are born. Everyone is pleased, particularly at the birth of the first baby, and the first child born in a Malay family is given special treatment. After the midwife has washed him he is laid on a specially made bed. This is covered with seven sarongs, usually the best that the parents have. Everyday, one of them is taken away until only a plain sheet is left. The first real ceremony of his life is performed soon after the child's birth. A few relatives and close friends are invited to a small party to ask Allah, the Malays' God, to bless the child and give him a good life. A religious man is invited to pray for this blessing and the parents take care when choosing him as Malaysbelive that baby will take some of this man's character; therefore he must have a good one. while he is praying, another man holds a lighted candle near the baby's face which shows that everyone hopes he will have a bright future.

A Malay woman does not leave the house for forty days after the birth of her child. At the end of this period another ceremony for the child follows. It is called berchukor and means the shaving of his head. Relatives and friends of the family are invited, and a religious man who is often an official from the mosque. In towns it is usually the Iman. He first of all recited a special prayer called berzanji which praises god and the prophet Mohammed. The baby is then brought up to him to be blessed. He smears some paste made of rice and scented water, called tepong tawar, on the baby's forehead and also rubs some gold on it. Then with a pair of scissors he cuts a piece of hair from the child's head. Each of the guests does the same thing. After another prayer, cakes and sweets are served.

When the child is about five years old he stars his first lessons. all Malays must learn to read the koran, the Muslims' s sacred book. His parents choose a teacher, either a man or woman who has devoted his or her life to this work, and the boy stars off by learning the alphabet. The koran is written in Arabic characters, called in Malay, Jawi. gradually he begins, first to read words, then sentences and finally a whole chapter. When he was finished the first one his parents send a candel, some cooked yellow rice and perhaps some money to his teacher.

When he reaches chapter fifteen, more rice, called nasi kuning, is sent. At the last chapter, number thirty, the teacher gets nasi kuning, some coloured eggs and maybe some money too. on reaching coloured and at this party he gives a recital to shoe how well he has learnt the koran and how expert his teacher is. it is called the khatamal koran, meaning the end of learning it. Girls as well must learn the koran. When the boy goes to his teacher he usually wears Malay clothes and not ordinary trousers and a shirt. He puts on a baju telok belanga, which is rather like a coat, witgh long sleeves but no collar, and loose trousers called seluar. Round his waist he wears a sarong; if this is a special one embroidered with gold or silver thread it is called kain sungkit. This word sungkit is Japanese and means 'drawing out'.

That is, threads of the cloth are drawn out and replaced with gold or silver. They are very expensive, and the colours and specially woven designs are often very beautiful. there are different ways of tying a sarong and if you know what to look for it is possible to tell where a man comes from and what to look for it is possible to tell where a man comes from and what to look for it is possible to tell where a man comes from and what his social standing is. When praying or reading the koran Muslims must have their heads covered and the hat worn is called a songkok. Usually black, it is oval shaped and four to six inches high. It has no brim because when a Muslim prays he must be able to touch the ground with his forehead.

A very important ceremony in Malay boy's life is his bersunat or circumcision and it is usually performed when he is between seven and thirteen years old. A party is held in his house and two recitals of berzikir and berzanji are given. these are rather similar and verses in praise of God and the prophet Mohammed. After the party, the operation is done, in the old days by a special man at the boy's home but now usually at the hospital. This is an important event in the boy's life as it shows he is growing up and he will probably now start attending Frday prayers at the mosque.

Religion

If you pass a mosque on Thursday you will see a red flag flyingas a warning that next day is Friday, when a white flag is put up. On Friday all Muslim men are expected to go to the mosque for prayers at midday. First of all they go to the washing place, because although they have already had a bath at home the exposed parts of the body must be washed again before entering the building. They start by washing their hands three times, then their face, mouth, nostrils and ears, also three times. Both arms are washed up to the elbows and both feet as far as the ankles. The top of the head and neck are also washed. When he has done all this the man turns and asks God to make him a better person. He now has a clean mind in a clean body and may enter the mosque. He has already taken off his shoes and he goes in by stepping over the threhold with his right foot first. After taking his place he asks God to bless the service and then waits quietly for the bilal, one of the officials, to come in and say the azan which is a warning that the khatib is coming. Bilal was the personal name of the first muezzin or caller to prayer, who was an Abyssinian slave with a lovely voice. He lived in the holy city of Mecca and was chosen for this important post in the year 630 A.D.

In West Malaysia and Sarawak the call to prayer is usually made by the sounding of a drum, called bedok, but in other Muslim countries the Muezzin still makes the call from one of the towers of the mosque. It is part of the bilal's duties also to look after the mosque. The khatib is a high official and he walks through the mosque attended by two men each carrying a flag. One is green and the other red. The khatib goes to the pulpit, called the mimbar, and delivers his address or sermon. He climbs up the steps to it one foot at a time, starting with the right. When he has finished , the Iman leads the congregation in prayers. He leads the prayers on Fridays and also gives religious instruction to the worshippers.

Should you wish to go to a mosque on a Friday it is possible for a non-Muslim to do so, although you probabbly will not be allowed to go right inside. the prayers follow a set pattern. first, there is the adhan, the call to prayer, and the language used all the time in the prayers in Arabic. Then follows the Iquama which is the call for everyone to line up in straight rows with the Imam in front. Everyone is now ready and the Imam calls out "Allahu akbar", "God is Great ". This is called the takbir and while he recites it the congregation stand with their hands open at the sides of their faces with the thumbs touching the lobes of their ears. they then say silently to themselves words glorifying god and they repeat them three times.

This is called thana and the hands are lowered from the sides of the face and placed a little below the breast with the right palm on the back of the left hand. the recital of the fatihah follow, which is the opening sura of the Koran and this is followed by some verses from the koran. With this over, everyone bows deeply from the waist and puts his hands on his knees, a position called rukok in which everyone recites in silence three times, the words "Subhana Rabbiy al Azim" "Glory to my Lord the Great". Then the Imam calls out, "God accepts him who gives praise to Him" and the followers, standing erect, say silently, "Oh, our Lord, thine is the praise" before making the first prostration or sujud. In this prostration everyone goes down on his knees putting hand and forehead on the ground, reciting in silence the words "Glory to my Lord the most High" three times.

The Imam then calls out "Allahu akbar" and the congregation all sit back on thier heels while the Imam repeats what he has just uttered; the prostration is done once more with the same words being repeated three times as before. With these three recitals completed the Imam again calls out "Allahu akbar" at which everyone rises to his feet, standing with his hands folded, the right over the left. This complete one rakaat as the whole is called. The prayers may consist of several rakaats depending on the time of day. When the prescribed number of them has been completed the Imam says, "Peace be with you and the mercy of God" turning his face to the left, the congregation doing the same. There are variations, but in general this is teh pattern of prayer used, at least in the mosque. But this is not the only place where a Muslim prays.

In each Malay village there is a surau, a sort of chapel and the villager will usually go there to pray, attending the central mosque only at midday on Friday. He can also pray at home, the form of his praying differing little from that in the mosque.

Muslims should pray five times each day. At dawn, called sembahyang suboh; at midday, sembahyang lohor or zohor; again at about four in the afternoon when it is called sembahyang asar; and sembahyang maghrib about seven in the evening. The last is at about eight o'clock and is named sembahyang isha. This last prayer may be said at any time between eight and midnight. Warning that it is time to pray is sounded from the mosque and surau by the bedok, a drum, and the sound of this id frequently heard in Malay villages. Often a rather roughly made instrument with a skin tightly stretched across one end and open at the other, the bedok is usually kept on the verandah. Before saying his prauers a Muslim will have taken his bath and changed into clean clothes; usually traditional Malay dress is worn here in Sarawak, but it is not essential.

Wedding

To a Malay, as to most of us, one of the best days in his life is his wedding day. This is a very colourful and enjoyable affair. Even today it is still quite common for marriages to be arranged by the parents of the boy and girl concerned, although now, each generally knows the other and only rarely do they meet for the first time at the actual ceremony. Traditionally, the relatives of the young man approach the girl's parents and once an agreement is reached the betrothal ceremony will be performed. In fact two are performed, one at the man's house and one at the bride's. She receives at least a gold rig, but usually there are many other presents, too such as cloth, sarongs, soap, scent and so on. A small amount of money is given also, as a sign of engageman's parents of their contribution towards the cost of the wedding. This is called the belanja dapor and is usually between $300 and $500.

It is put into a silver cup which may be taken in a procession of friends and relatives to the girl's house. Preparations for the wedding are long and elaborate and often, extra shelters have to be put up for cooking and eating in and sometimes supports are added to the house in case the weight of the guests weakens the existing ones! inside the house, a lot of cleaning and preparations has been done. Decorations are put up and the bridal bed is specially made up with new sheets, and beautifully decorated with flowers and coloured cloth all round it. In the main room of the house, a platform is built with two chairs placed on it. this is for the bersanding, the ceremonial sitting together. Traditionally, it was at thi time that the bride and groom first saw each other.

On the wedding day, parties are held in both the houses concerned after the nikah or marriage contract has been drawn up. it is usual for the groom to move to his bride's house. (One way of finding out if a Malay ismarried or not is to ask him if he has moved yet, "enche sudah pindah kah"?). After the party in his own house he goes to his new home escorted by a large crowd of friends and relatives. Among them there may be groups of girls all dressed alike in the same patterned clothes. this means that they were classmates in school, they work together or that there is usually very beautifully dressed in a specially fine kain sungkit and often an elaborately decorted head-dress.When he reaches the house the bersanding takes place.

This is a ceremonial sitting together and Malays consider it good luck if the newly married couple sit down at the same moment. As soon as they are seated the guests coem in, each of them smearing a little tepong tawar, the special rice and scented water paste, onto the backs of the couple's hands and foreheads, and throwing a pinch of unlocked yellow rice over them from right to left. When all the guests have done this, there is one more thing for the couple to do. Each malay house has two staircases, one in front and one at the back of thehouse. These must be climbed up and down seven times, the groom taking the front staircase and the bride the back one. A week after the wedding, the newly married pair go to the groo m's house to pay a formal call on his parentas.

Funeral

If a wedding is a happy occassion a funeral is a sad one, but Muslims should not show their grief in public. when a death occurs the village headman should be told and neighbours too. This may be done personally or by a special solemn bedok from the surau. The funeral should take place as soon as possible although a short time may be place as soon as possible although a short time may be waited to allow a close relative to arrive from some distance. The body, called in Malay, mayat is prepared for burial in a special way. It is first carefully washed, held in the lap of the chief mourner. After this, camphorated water is rubbed over it before it is wrapped in a shroud. The face is not covered so that the family may kiss the forehead of the dead person before the body is laid in the coffin. This is usually made on the same day as the funeral by relatives and friends. It is not a Malay custom to buy one already made.

A short prayer is said when the body is put inside the coffin and it is then lifted up and laid across the threshold, partly in a partly outside the house. Another prayer is said and the coffin is then moved a little. This is done three times, a short prayer being said each time. On the third time, the coffin is lifted up and carried down the steps of the house to be palced on a decorated platform, which is usually carried on the shoulders of some of the mourners, and taken to the cemetery. should the funeral take place on a Friday the coffin is laid down in the mosque before burial while some extra prayers are said. The body is buried lying directly on its right side on the ground whiile the coffin is placed over it acting as a cover. When the grave is filled in, a prayer called talkin is said and the dead person is reffered to as the child of his or her mother and not father. three days after the funeral a small feast is held at the house for relatives and close friends, another on the seventh day, twentieth day, fortieth day and finally on the hundredth day. After this, the death will be commemorated on the anniversary.

Celebration

There is one very important festi every year for Muslims and it is celebrated all over the world, wherever they live. it is known as Hari Raya and comes at the end of bulan Puasa or Ramadzan, the month of the fast. The ninth month of the Muslim year, it is thought to be the holiest because it was in this month that the first chapter of the koran was revealed to the prophet Mohammed. All Muslims should fast throughout this month and celebrate the end with a great feast. The fasting begins from the sighting of the new moon and ends on the last night of the same moon. During that month no one should eat or drink anything at all from sunrise to sunset, and really strict Muslims will not even swallow their own spittle. The fast stops for the day at the sounding of the evening drum, at sunset. In hot countries it can be very difficult indeed to follow the fast every day for whole month and if there are medical reasons, the rule may be relaxed for one or two or more days if necessary. during the month, self control of all kinds must be practised and there should be no quarrelling or fighting between people. What really happens is that as far as food is concerned the Muslims turn night into day and instead of eating as usual they eat in the time of darkness. the first meal is taken very soon after sunset, another abnout midnight and the last one just before sunrise. ater that, nothing at all.

In Sarawak, people often eat special sorts of food in this month. One favourie is bubor pedas a sort of spiced soup; they eat various sorts of cakes and jellies, too. There is one special thing about bulan puasa which only seems to happen in kuching, although it may also occur seems to happen in kuching, although it may also occur in other places. If you go for a walk in the kampung or Malay village in the evening you will see along the road a number of young boys and girls with little stalls. They are selling rojak a sort of salad made of cucumber, potato, chilli and sauce. there is also suntong, which is squid roasted over a fire. these things are very popular, and people out for a stroll in the cool of the evening will stop and buy from the children. They, of course, find it a useful addition to their pocket money.

On the twenty-seventh day of the month, called tujoh likur, if you walk through any Malay village you will find the houses lighted up with oil lamps, or coloured electric bubs. Two special things happen before the month ends. Both of them on the day before. first of all a special bedok is sounded at midday, telling everybody that Ramadzan ends on the following day. when they hear this, peopl must start giving their zakat fitrah, a gift in the form of money or rice, one dollar or about a gantang of rice, so that poor people too can enjoy the feast, which is called Id ul Fitrah.

Hajji

You may have met Malays, or other Muslims who have the title Haji in addition to theur own name. This means that they have made the haj, a pilgrimage to the city of Mecca in Saudi Arabia on the Red Sea. This is the holiest town in the Muslim world and all Muslims should go there at least once in their lifetime if they can afford to. Some save up for many, many years, going when they retire and making this journey the last really important thing they do before they die. For those living in countries far from Mecca, like Sarawak, for instance, the journey is a real pilgrimage, undertaken at great expense and often with great personal discomfort. From it, however, the pilgrim obtains merit for having obeyed one of the five priciples of Islam.

Having reached Mecca itself, the actual pilgrimage to the holy places at certain times and in a special way. It must be undertaken in the month of Dhulhijjah, that is the twelfth month of the year. Inside the city of Mecca is a building called Kaaba, an Arabic word meaning foursided, one wall of which contains a very sacred black stone. th pilgrims walk round this building seven times and then run between two small hills not far away called Safa and Marwa, the entrances to a mosque in Mecca. After this they must go to another hill called Arafat about twelve miles away. On the way back to the town they stop at a place called Mina where sheep and camels are sacrificed. There is also a ceremonial stoning of the devil at this place.

One of the most important things each of the pilfrims has to do is to kiss the black stone which is set into one of the walls of the kaaba.Whilst carrying out these duties they must be berihram , that is, clothed in two simple garments which are really hemless white sheets, one wrapped round the waist and the other thrown over the shoulders. Pilgrims must not cut their hair their hair or nails until the sacrifice of the sheep and camels at Mina is made. On completion of all the required ritesm special clothes are worn to show that the haj has been made. these are a long white gown and a special white cap. sometimes the Arabic style of head-dress is worn, but in Sarawak the cap is more usual. The title Haji added to the pilgrim's name increases the respect hr gets from his friends, relatives and neighbours once he has returned to this own country.

Calling

If you mix a lot with Malays you will very rarely hear personal names clearly used. in Europe and America the full Christian name is usually usec by parents and other people. among Malays, and chinese also, this is not the case. Malays have only one name of their own which is followed by their father's name, so that a man might be known as Ismail bin Rozali, that is, Ismail son of Rozali. But it is the habit of Malays always to shorten names to the last syllable, so that Ismail, which is the Malay version of Samuel, becomes 'Mail while Rozali becomes 'Li in conversations. In the family it is even more complicated because brothers and sisters never address each other by name. The eldest son is called Abang, that is, eldest brother, by the others, while he calls them Adek or younger brother. this is a little like the Chinese habit of referring to brothers as first, second, third and so on. Of course with the habit of shortening names they become 'bang and 'dek. The word for eldest sister is kakak, or 'kak. To make things even more difficult people often give their children nicknames, too!

All the days of the week in Malay are Arabic words meaning the first day, second day and so on; this is rather like the kaki lima way of saying it : hari satu, hari dua etc. The names of the days are :-


Sunday hari ahad
Monday ithnain (pron. isnain)
Tuesday thalatha (pron. selasa)
Wednesday arbaa (pron. rabu)
Thursday Khamis
Friday jumaat (day of the assembly)
Saturday sabtu

To the Malays the day begins at sunset and not at midnight as is usual elsewhere. Because of this it is easy to make a mistake if a Nalay invites you to something which is to take place after sunset. the night is included with the following day. So that if you want to invite someone to dinner at eight o'clock on Thursday evening according to European custom, if you ask him using Malay time you must say pukul lapan malam jumaat because the eve of Friday has already begun. Like the days of the week, Malays also use Arabic words for the names of the month of they ear. this is a lunar year, that is from moon to moon and not sun to sun and it is eleven days shorter than the solar year. Each month is of thirty and twenty-nine days alternately.

1. Moharam 30 days
2. Safar 29 days
3. Rabi-ul-awal or bulan Maulud
(the month of the Prophet's birthday)
4. Rabi il Akhir
5. Jamad il Awal
6. Jamad il Akhir
7. Rejab
8. Sha'aban
9.Ramadzan or bulan puasa (fasting month)
10 Shawal or bulan Raya (month of the great feast0
11. Dhulkaisah
12. Dhulhijjah

p/s: I still pure malay eventhough i mixed. hehe =P


Wednesday, May 20, 2009

P.E.R.F.U.M.E - The Smell From Heaven

Alright, let's take a look what is actually perfume is,

Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils and aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents used to give the human body, animals, objects, and living spaces a "pleasant" smell.

The word perfume used today derives from the Latin "per fumum", meaning through smoke. Perfumery, or the art of making perfumes, began in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt and was further refined by the Romans and Persians. Although perfume and perfumery also existed in India, much of its fragrances are incense based. The earliest distillation of Attar was mentioned in the Hindu Ayurvedic text Charaka Samhita. The Harshacharita, written in 7th century A.D. in Northern India mentions use of fragrant agarwood oil. The world's first recorded chemist is considered to be a woman named Tapputi, a perfume maker who was mentioned in a cuneiform tablet from the second millennium BC in Mesopotamia.

She distilled flowers, oil, and calamus with other aromatics then filtered and put them back in the still several times.

Perfume types reflect the concentration of aromatic compounds in a solvent, which in fine fragrance is typicallyethanol or a mix of water and ethanol. Various sources differ considerably in the definitions of perfume types.

The concentration by percent/volume of perfume oil is as follows: Perfume extract (Extrait):

a) 15-40% (IFRA: typical 20%) aromatic compounds

b) Eau de Parfum (EdP), Parfum de Toilette (PdT): 10-20% (typical ~15%) aromatic compounds. Sometimes listed as "eau de perfume" or "millésime"

c) Eau de Toilette (EdT): 5-15% (typical ~10%) aromatic compounds

d) Eau de Cologne (EdC): Chypre citrus type perfumes with 3-8% (typical ~5%) aromatic compounds

e) Splash and After shave: 1-3% aromatic compounds

The precise formulae of commercial perfumes are kept secret. Even if they were widely published, they would be dominated by such complex ingredients and odorants that they would be of little use in providing a guide to the general consumer in description of the experience of a scent. Nonetheless, connoisseurs of perfume can become extremely skillful at identifying components and origins of scents in the same manner as wine experts.


The traditional classification which emerged around 1900 comprised the following categories:


- Single Floral: Fragrances that are dominated by a scent from one particular flower; in French called a soliflore. (e.g. Serge Lutens' Sa Majeste La Rose, which is dominated by rose.)

- Floral Bouquet: Containing the combination of several flowers in a scent.

- Amber: A large fragrance class featuring the sweet slightly animalic scents of ambergris or labdanum, often combined with vanilla, flowers and woods. Can be enhanced by camphorous oils and incense resins, which bring to mind Victorian era imagery of the Middle East and Far East.

- Wood: Fragrances that are dominated by woody scents, typically of agarwood, sandalwood and cedar. Patchouli, with its camphoraceous smell, is commonly found in these perfumes.Leather: A family of fragrances which features the scents of honey, tobacco, wood and wood tars in its middle or base notes and a scent that alludes to leather.

- Chypre: Meaning Cyprus in French, this includes fragrances built on a similar accord consisting of bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum. This family of fragrances is named after a perfume by François Coty. A notable example is Mitsouko (a popular name for girls in Japanese) by Guerlain.

- Fougère: Meaning Fern in French, built on a base of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss. Houbigant's Fougère Royale pioneered the use of this base. Many men's fragrances belong to this family of fragrances, which is characterized by its sharp herbaceous and woody scent.

Natural and synthetics are used for their different odor characteristics in perfumery:


Naturals Synthetics
Variance Vary by the times and locations where they are harvested. It's much more difficult to produce consistent products with equivalent odor over years of harvest. As such, the perfumer has to "manually" balance-out the natural variations of the ingredients in order to maintain the quality of the perfume. Much more consistent than natural aromatics. However, differences in organic synthesis may result in minute differences in concentration of impurities. If these impurities have low smell (detection) thresholds, the differences in the scent of the synthetic aromatic will be significant.
Components Thousands of chemical compounds. Depending on purity, consists primarily of one chemical compound.
Scent Uniqueness Bears a somewhat similar scent to its originating material, depending on the extraction method. Similar to natural scents if the compounds are the same. Novel scent compounds not mimicking natural compounds however, bear little scent likeness to natural materials.
Scent Complexity Deep and complex fragrance notes. Softer with subtle scent nuances. Pure and pronounced fragrance notes. Structural and defined.
Price Perfume composed of largely natural materials are usually much more expensive. Perfumes using largely synthetic aromatics can be available at widely-affordable prices. However, synthetic aromatics and perfumes are not necessarily cheaper than naturals. Some synthetics can be more costly than most natural ingredients due to various factors such as the complexity of systhesis or extraction procedure.

Fragrance compounds in perfumes will degrade or break down if improperly stored in the presence of:
- Heat
- Light
- Oxygen
- Extraneous organic materials

The Greatest Perfume over The Century:

390 Fiori di Capri Carthusia
1709 Farina Eau de Cologne Johann Maria Farina Johann Maria Farina (1685-1766)
1714 Kölnisch Wasser Farina gegenüber Johann Maria Farina
1780 Royal English Leather Creed
1789 Number Six Caswell-Massey
1792 4711 Echt Kölnisch Wasser 4711 Wilhelm Muhlens
1798 Eau de Lubin Parfum Lubin Pierre François Lubin
1799 Gold Medal Atkinsons
1806 Jean Marie Farina Roger & Gallet
1815 Freshman Truefitt & Hill Francis Truefitt
1821 Lavender Floris
1828 Pot Pourri Santa Maria Novella
1853 Eau de Cologne Imperial Guerlain Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain
1862 Fantasia de Fleurs Creed
1872 Hammam Bouquet Penhaligon's William Henry Penhaligon
1889 Jicky Guerlain Aimé Guerlain
c. 1900 Bouquet Nouveau Roger & Gallet
1901 Edwardian Bouquet Floris
1902 Blenheim Bouquet Penhaligon's William Henry Penhaligon
1904 Mouchoir de Monsieur Guerlain Jacques Guerlain
1908 Florida Water Murray & Lanman
c.1910 Astris L.T. Piver L.T. Piver
c.1912 Chypre D'Orsay
1911 English Fern Penhaligon's William Henry Penhaligon
c. 1911 Illusion Drake
c.1911 Narcise Noir Parfums Caron
1912 L'Heure Bleue Guerlain Jacques Guerlain
1912 Quelques Fleurs L'Original Houbigant
1913 April Violets Yardley
c. 1913 La Feuilleraie Gueldy
c.1913 Muguet Coty
1913 Violette Précieuse Parfums Caron Ernest Daltroff
1916 Acqua di Parma Colonia Acqua di Parma
1917 Chypre de Coty François Coty François Coty
1919 Mitsouko Guerlain Jacques Guerlain
1919 Tabac Blond Caron Ernest Daltroff
1921 N°5 Chanel Ernest Beaux
1922 June Roses Morny
1922 No. 22 Chanel Ernest Beaux
1922 Nuit de Noël Caron Ernest Daltroff
1924 Cuir de Russie Chanel Ernest Beaux
c.1925 Mon Studio Calliste
c.1925 My Sin Lanvin
1925 Shalimar Guerlain Jacques Guerlain
1926 Bois des Îles Chanel Ernest Beaux
1926 Paris Coty
1927 Arpège Lanvin André Fraysse
1927 Bellodgia Caron Ernest Daltroff
1927 L'Aimant Coty Francois Coty, Vincent Roubert
1928 Soir de Paris Bourjois Ernest Beaux
1929 Liu Guerlain Jacques Guerlain
1930 Acqua di Parma Profumo Acqua di Parma
1930 Joy Jean Patou Henri Alméras
1932 Je Reviens House of Worth Maurice Blanchet
1932 Tabu Dana Jean Carles
1933 Vol de Nuit Guerlain Jacques Guerlain
1933 Angélique Encens Creed
1934 Blue Grass Elizabeth Arden Fragonard
1934 Dunhill for Men Alfred Dunhill
1934 Pour Un Homme Caron Ernest Daltroff
1935 Nuit de Longchamp Parfum Lubin
1936 French Cancan Caron Ernest Daltroff
c.1936 Kobako Bourjois
1937 Colony Patou
1938 Dancing Time Durbarry
1939 It's You Arden
1940 Snuff Schiaparelli
1943 Arôme 3 D'Orsay
1944 Bandit Robert Piguet Germaine Cellier
1944 Femme Rochas Edmond Roudnitska
1945 White Shoulders Elizabeth Arden
1946 Coeur-Joie Nina Ricci Germaine Cellier
1946 Ma Griffe Carven Jean Carles
1947 Vent Vert Balmain Germaine Cellier
1948 Fracas Robert Piguet Germaine Cellier
1948 L'Air du Temps Nina Ricci Françis Fabron
1949 Rose Caron Michel Morsetti
1949 English Leather Dana
1950 Orange Spice Creed
1951 Eau d'Hermès Hermès Edmond Roudnitska
1951 Prince Douka Marquay
1952 Wind Song Prince Matchabelli Georges V. Matchabelli
1952 Quadrille Balenciaga
1953 Youth Dew[1][2] Estée Lauder Estée Lauder
1954 Electrique Max Factor
1954 Poivre Caron Michel Morsetti
1955 Chanel Pour Monsieur Chanel Henri Robert
1955 Pine Sylvestre Silvestre Lino Vidal
1956 Diorissimo Christian Dior Edmond Roudnitska
1957 Le De Givenchy
1957 L'Interdit (original) Givenchy Francis Fabron
1959 Monsieur de Givenchy Givenchy Michel Hy
1959 Cabochard Parfums Grès Bernard Chant
1960 Unforgettable Avon
1961 Eau d'Hadrien Annick Goutal Annick Goutal
1961 Vetiver Guerlain Jean-Paul Guerlain
1962 Bal a Versailles Jean Desprez Jean Desprez
1963 Diorling Christian Dior Paul Vacher
1964 Idole de Lubin Parfum Lubin
1965 Aramis Aramis
1966 Eau Sauvage Christian Dior Edmond Roudnitska
1967 Climat Lancôme
1968 Irisia Creed
1969 Ô Lancôme Robert Gonnon
1969 Chamade Guerlain Jean-Paul Guerlain
1970 Equipage Hermès Guy Robert
1970 Sélection Verte Creed
1971 No. 19 Chanel Henri Robert
1972 Diorella Christian Dior Edmond Roudnitska
1972 Fleurissimo Creed
1973 Charlie Revlon Harry A. Cuttler
1973 Ciara Revlon
1974 Baby Soft Love's
1974 Cristalle Chanel Henri Robert
1974 Eau de Guerlain Guerlain Jean-Paul Guerlain
1975 Zeste Mandarine Pamplemousse Creed
1976 Lily of the Valley Penhaligon's
1976 Violetta Penhaligon's
1976 Z-14 Halston Vincent Marsello
1977 Opium Yves Saint Laurent Jean-Louis Sieuzac
1978 Anaïs Anaïs Cacharel Raymond Chaillan/Roger Pellegrino
1978 Azzaro Pour Homme Azzaro Gérard Anthony, Martin Heiddenreich, Richard Wirtz
1978 Bluebell Penhaligon's Michael Pickthall
1978 Cinnabar Estée Lauder
1978 Magie Noire Lancôme G. Goupy / J-C Niel
1978 White Linen Estée Lauder Sophia Grojsman
1979 Nahéma Guerlain Jean-Paul Guerlain
1980 Ivoire Balmain Francis Camail
1980 Patou Pour Homme Jean Patou Jean Kerleo
1981 Kouros Yves Saint Laurent Pierre Bourdon
1981 Must de Cartier Cartier Jean-Jacques Diener
1981 Nombre Noir Shiseido Jean-Yves Leroy
1981 Giorgio Giorgio Beverly Hills Group Work: M.L. Quince, Francis Camail, Harry Cuttler
1982 Drakkar Noir Guy Laroche Pierre Wargnye
1982 Trussardi Trussardi
1982 Quorum Antonio Puig
1983 Paris Yves Saint Laurent Sophia Grojsman
1984 Coco Chanel Jacques Polge
1985 Obsession Calvin Klein Jean Guichard
1985 Poison Christian Dior Jean Guichard
1985 Green Irish Tweed Creed Oliver Creed
1986 Prescriptives Calyx Prescriptives Sophia Grojsman
1987 Lou Lou Cacharel Jean Guichard
1988 Cool Water Davidoff Pierre Bourdon
1988 Eternity Calvin Klein Sophia Grojsman
1988 Fahrenheit Christian Dior Jean-Louis Sieuzac, Maurice Roger
1989 Red Door Elizabeth Arden Carlos Benaim, Olivier Gillotin
1989 Samsara Guerlain Jean-Paul Guerlain
1990 Trésor Lancôme Sophia Grojsman
1991 Gendarme Gendarme
1992 Angel Thierry Mugler Olvier Cresp
1992 Bois de Violette Serge Lutens Christopher Sheldrake
1992 L'eau d'Issey Issey Miyake Jacques Cavallier
1992 Feminitè du Bois Shiseido Christopher Sheldrake
1993 Jean-Paul Gaultier Classique Jean-Paul Gaultier Jacques Cavallier
1994 CK One Calvin Klein Harry Fremont and Alberto Morillas
1995 24, Faubourg Hermès Maurice Roucel
1995 Hugo Hugo Boss Francis Kurkdjian/Creations Aromatiques
1995 Le Mâle Jean-Paul Gaultier Francis Kurkdjian
1995 Millésime Impérial Creed
1996 Acqua di Gió Pour Homme Giorgio Armani Alberto Morillas and Jacques Cavallier
1996 Angel Men/A*Men Thierry Mugler
1996 Dolce Vita Christian Dior Pierre Bourdon and Maurice Roger
1996 Spring Flower Creed Olivier Creed
1996 Tommy Girl Tommy Hilfiger
1996 Organza Givenchy Sophie Labbé
1997 Envy Gucci Maurice Roucel
1997 Lolita Lempicka Lolita Lempicka Annick Menardo
1998 Hypnotic Poison Christian Dior Annick Menardo
1998 Bulgari Black Bulgari Annick Menardo
1998 Noa Cacharel Olivier Cresp
1999 Dzing! L'Artisan Olivia Giacobetti
1999 J’Adore Christian Dior Calice Becker
2000 En Passant Frederic Malle Olivia Giacobetti
2000 Tea for Two L'Artisan Olivia Giacobetti
2001 1872 Clive Christian
2001 Chergui Serge Lutens Christopher Sheldrake
2001 Coco Mademoiselle Chanel Jacques Polge
2001 Light Blue Dolce & Gabbana Olivier Cresp
2001 Mugler Cologne Thierry Mugler Alberto Morillas
2001 No. 1 Clive Christian
2001 Nu Yves Saint Laurent Jacques Cavallier
2001 X Clive Christian
2002 Addict Christian Dior Thierry Wasser
2002 Black Cashmere Donna Karan
2002 2 Comme des Garçons
2002 Chance Chanel Jacques Polge
2002 M7 Yves Saint Laurent Alberto Morillas, Jacques Cavallier
2003 100% Love Shaping Room Sophia Grojsman
2003 Amor Amor Cacharel Laurent Bruyere, Dominque Ropion
2003 Beyond Paradise Estée Lauder
2003 Brit Burberry
2003 Narciso Rodriguez For Her Narciso Rodriguez Francis Kurkdjian & Christine Nagel
2004 Eau des Merveilles Hermès Ralf Schwieger / Nathalie Feisthauer
2004 Flowerbomb Viktor & Rolf Olivier Polge / Carlos Benaim / Domitille Bertier
2004 Pure Poison Christian Dior
2005 Alien Theirry Mugler Dominique Ropion / Laurent Bruyere
2005 Chinatown Bond No. 9 Aurelien Guichard
2005 Euphoria Calvin Klein
2005 Un Jardin sur le Nil Hermès Jean-Claude Ellena
2006 Black Orchid Tom Ford
2006 Terre d'Hermès Hermès Jean-Claude Ellena
2006 Rose 31 Le Labo Daphne Bugey
2006 Lily & Spice Penhaligon's
2006 Insolence Guerlain Maurice Roucel
2006 L'Homme Yves Saint Laurent
2007 Fleur du Mâle Jean-Paul Gaultier Francis Kurkdjian
2007 Prada Infusion d'Iris Prada
2007 Gucci by Gucci Gucci
2007 Black Roberto Cavalli
2008 8 88 Comme des Garçons
2008 Gucci by Gucci - Pour Homme Gucci
2008 Diamonds Emporio Armani
2009 It's Me! CnRCreate


p/s: well, i loves collecting perfume. My favorite is Dunhill and Dolce&Gabbana.